Shedding Some Light on the Complexities of Compliance Regulations for Fashion Brands

Photo by Patrick Tomasso on Unsplash

Compliance regulations, standards, certifications and accreditations for sustainable and eco-friendly fashion brands are numerous and often obscure, to the point of appearing like a minefield shrouded in fog. Some are mandatory; many are not. Some are enforced in your own country; others are set in your suppliers’ countries. 

Let’s see if we can’t help you and other eco-conscious fashion brands navigate the minefield and shed some sunshine on this mess of rules and regulations. 

The problem with global regulations for fashion compliance? There are none. 

It’s really as simple as that - which, of course, makes things a whole lot more complicated. A set of all-encompassing compliance regulations set and enforced by a global entity on a global scale simply doesn’t exist. 

Instead, compliance regulations are imposed and enforced by

1. the country your business is registered in and

2. the country (or countries) in which your suppliers are producing their wares.

In most cases, that involves at least two different countries, meaning you have to adhere to several sets of rules. That, in itself, doesn’t sound too bad. The problem lies in the fact that ensuring your suppliers are sticking to their own country’s regulations is incredibly difficult, let alone the standards you’ve set for them. 

But how can a small fashion brand in the UK prove (or even know) that their manufacturers in Bangladesh really are sourcing their materials through sustainable means or using an eco-friendly dye that doesn’t kill all flora and fauna in the river? 

Why don’t developing countries just stick to their compliance regulations?

The problem for developing countries like Vietnam, Bangladesh and India, where the majority of clothes are made, is that they have neither the desire nor the means to regulate the environmental impact or conditions for their workers. These countries simply don’t have the organisational structures in place to hold fashion manufacturers accountable for pollution. 

Even if they did, it’s unlikely they would be effective. The reason they thrive is because of their ability to undercut manufacturing costs by not following regulations. Increasing said regulations would force these suppliers to adjust their manufacturing methods - which would drive up costs. Problem is, that the goal for the majority of fashion companies remains the same as always: maximum profit. 

But a paradigm shift has been taking place lately, with end consumers forcing the issue. More and more, the onus is on retailers and brands themselves to encourage environmentally sound practices by their suppliers if they want to keep selling clothes to their increasingly environmentally and sustainability-conscious clientele. 

So let’s have a look at the compliance regulations and standards that do exist worldwide and which can help you find suppliers who fit your criteria for sustainability and eco-friendliness. 

Mandatory regulations per country

Unsurprisingly, it’s easy to find detailed information about mandatory textile compliance regulations for industrial nations, for example: 

• Clothing and Textiles Regulations in the United States

• Clothing and Textiles Regulations in the European Union

However, finding information on fashion compliance regulations for developing countries proves a lot more difficult; and where information can be found, it’s often outdated. Here are some articles that attempt to clarify the matter: 

• Navigating China’s Textile, Apparel, & Footwear Regulations

• GB 18401: Making China's Growing Consumer Market for Textiles and Apparel

• Cleaning up Bangladesh's textile industry

• Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh

• Circular 21/2017 / TT-BCT - Vietnam’s new textile regulation (2019)

Voluntary standards and certifications by private organisations

The following standards and certifications are voluntary, meaning that the lack of substantial legal repercussions prevents adherence worldwide. Still, these organisations are a good place to start increasing awareness of fashion’s impact. 

The SA8000 standard is one of the world’s leading social standards used for measuring social compliance and implementing international labour standards. It was established by Social Accountability International, a non-governmental, multi-stakeholder organisation that strives to eliminate sweatshops by promoting ethical working conditions, labour rights, corporate social responsibility and social dialogue.

GB 18401-2010 standardizes the general safety requirements and testing methods for all textile products manufactured in or exported to China. It is largely derived from the textile and apparel standards of the International Organization for Standardization.

The SAC (Sustainable Apparel Coalition) aims to establish a framework for worldwide sustainable apparel production. It has more than 200 global members who are committed to measuring and improving social and environmental sustainability impacts. The SAC developed the HIGG index, by which companies self-assess and measure environmental and social labour impacts across their supply chain. 

In 2017, the OECD adopted a global guidance standard on companies’ due diligence requirements towards their supply chain as it relates to child labour, forced labour, workers’ wages and collective bargaining agreements. While the guidance is not legally binding, they are the only multilaterally agreed and comprehensive code of responsible business conduct that governments of the member countries have committed to promoting. 

The GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standards) is an internationally recognised organic textile standard, which defines high-level environmental criteria along the entire organic textiles supply chain and also requires compliance with social criteria. Only textile products that contain a minimum of 70% organic fibres can become GOTS-certified. 

Voluntary accreditations by independent third-party organisations

An increasing amount of sceptical consumers are turning to third parties to do their homework for them and attest to brands’ claims. In fact, 76% of consumers believe that independent third-party certification is the best way to verify a product’s social or environmental claims. These third-party organisations use badges and so-called “trust seals” to help consumers determine if products meet their given standards. Here are some examples. 

Fair Trade Certified is a global movement made up of a diverse network of producers, companies, shoppers, advocates, and organizations putting people and the planet first. Fair Trade Certified certifies whole products, ingredients and multi-ingredient products in five main categories, including Apparel & Home Goods.

BLUESIGN promotes the “Blue Way”, which represents the vision and mindset of responsible and sustainable manufacturing of textile consumer products. BLUESIGN is powered by a holistic approach and provides safer and more sustainable environments for people to work in and everyone to live in. 

Many more of these standards, certifications and accreditations are listed here by the Textile Standards & Legislation.